20G

Thread in 'Discussion' started by Zircean, 6 Jan 2009.

  1. Hey tetrisconcept,

    I've been lurking around these forums for a while and recently decided to join up. This site singlehandedly got me addicted to TGM and its sequels.

    However, going from 20G in TDS to 20G in TGM is a tough change, and my highest level reached in TGM1 is a paltry 542 (and even then, it was pretty slow at 7:50.83 and rank S3). With ARS' lack of wall kicks and move reset, I'm finding that even though I can survive forever in TDS 20G I'm absolute garbage at TGM 20G. Not having hold piece isn't fun either.

    Any tips and tricks to help me wean myself off SRS?
     
  2. tepples

    tepples Lockjaw developer

    With Lockjaw, you can learn classic style 20G without the time pressure. Use these settings: step reset + Arika rotation + no floor kick + Death speed + infinite lock delay + no hold + 1 preview. You'll have problems surviving 20G your first few plays, just like I had problems making more than four lines the first few times I played Tetris at all (on a Game Boy in 1990). But once you can make it to 999 this way, you'll play better once you turn the time pressure back on.
     
  3. Thanks, I'll give that a try. I already have Lockjaw, and you did a good job on it. It's one of the most complete Tetris fangames I've ever played.

    Another problem I have is being able to clear misdrops and other mistakes at high gravity. Whenever I try to get rid of them, I always seem to overstack the holes and just make more problems. The TGM randomizer is for the most part nice to me, but I've had it throw three of the same piece at me in a row or starve me of a necessary piece for a long time (sometimes up to say, 15 pieces), something I really don't see with 7-bag and hold. Even when I have a stable stack, I still have to skim quite a bit to keep it at a good level in case the game decides I'm not getting any Is. How can I get around this?
     
  4. 7-bag can only starve you for a maximum of 12 pieces, and it can't give you more than two of the same piece in a row. Also worth mentioning is that you'll see repeats in TGM1 -- which re-rolls up to 4 times -- more often than TAP/Ti -- which each re-roll up to 6 times.

    EDIT:
     
  5. m:)

    m:) Unregistered

    i have to learn to not get those J's and L's stuck at the top of the pyramid. they get me every time. it seems you need to first rotate the opposite direction to get the piece to spawn in a manner it wont get hung up.

    that and accidentally rotating the piece that isn't locked yet. i need to work on manual locking.
     
  6. Good technique is to initial rotate L and J pieces so that they spawn in the same orientations as the letters.
     
  7. That gives you 2 columns instead of 1, but you also have to use the intial state if you want the full range of 3 columns.
     
  8. tepples

    tepples Lockjaw developer

    By keeping the top few rows of your rectum at 2 columns instead of 1, which you should be doing anyway if you want the I to be able to rotate. This way, you can do triples with any L that comes along, and if you get L-S or L-O, you can do a triple-double combo.
     
  9. Good idea. Recently I've been hating the I for that very reason. Sometimes I'll bring it over to the rectum and I'll only have one empty space, so it won't rotate. Damn that no wall kick. [​IMG] Also, yes, I do have to learn how to use IRS more efficiently. And thanks for those sites Kitaru, they explain a lot of stuff.
     
  10. But not always!!! [​IMG]

    definitely look into utilizing IRS with Ls and Js though. triple-rotates and such.
     
  11. I've started triple-rotating J's and L's all the time, and I think it's made me improve. I gotta get faster to avoid shit like 1:00 0-100 death.
     
  12. Hey, half my games end that way because I screw up. There's something different about starting 20G with a stack already in place and one in an empty field.
    One thing in ARS: watch out for Mihara's conspiracy. I use it around once per game to freak out my brother when he watches.
     
  13. What do you mean by triple-rotates? I know how you can use IRS to keep J and L from getting stuck (though I'm not so good at it yet), but I'm not sure what you mean here.
     
  14. Triple rotation of L/J typically refers to this 20G maneuver: http://www13.plala.or.jp/TETRiS_TGM/kouza/6pics/16.gif, http://www13.plala.or.jp/TETRiS_TGM/kouza/6pics/17.gif.
     
  15. m:)

    m:) Unregistered

    that goes right along with this..

     
  16. yep. although that case is an easy one. Harder is a case like this one, where the danger is accidentally doing this instead.

    I still haven't learned to avoid Mihara's conspiracy $#^@ing up my J placements. arghhhhhh!
     
  17. The other thing about the triple rotates is unless you use all three buttons, it's likely that the L or J will lock with the flat side down once the lock delay's below about 18 frames. This is one of the reasons my Special and Sudden Ti runs often end up topping out.

    Well, that is, if you don't step the piece down during the process...
     
  18. If you're quick enough you can do it while DASing.

    For L pieces, I IRS using A, then press C twice. For J pieces, IRS using B, then press B twice.

    As long as you get the first button press in before it's too late, you're fine. You have a few frames I think.

    I'm not exactly sure how I do it though. maybe I delay my DAS charge slightly to give myself more time. If there's a nice step structure, then I may just tap tap, resetting lock delay each time.

    Then again, it's not like I can survive at Death 300+ anyways...
     
  19. If your field is flat and you can't step down, then you shouldn't ever need to triple-rotate.

    For this "hard case" I would personally put the J somewhere else (or hold), and work on altering the stack so that I could just put it in without needing to triple rotate. Or go with the "wrong" placement and just fix it later on.
     

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