Hello! I'd like to know whether this arcade cabinet is compatible for TGM1. I'm new, have no idea what I'm doing, and this will be my first arcade cabinet. Here is the item. This is a Marvel v. Capcom Arcade Cabinet. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/vgm/4878633876.html http://imgur.com/qINd2YO http://imgur.com/GQhDbUh Is this compatible with TGM1? Is this a good price? What are the problems?
Yeah, you should be able to use TGM1 in that cabinet. Almost all games from the 90's use the JAMMA wiring standard, and Marvel vs. Capcom (as with the rest of the CPS2 games) is no exception. The monitor should also be 15khz/low res, as that's the common standard for most JAMMA games (once again, CPS2 games certainly falling in that category). That said, the joysticks are probably not quite what you're looking for -- more likely than not these have a circular gate and are not adjustable to a 4-way/diamond-shaped setup. A circle gate is probably less strange than a square one, but still likely awkward. Ideally the stick should snap cleanly into the cardinal directions and not get muddled up in any diagonals. TGM players also tend to prefer Japanese joysticks by Sanwa or Seimitsu (particular Sanwa JLF, but Seimitsu LS-32's also used to get some play). However, I'm not sure how you would go about mounting them in a wood panel cabinet like this. (I tried looking for some info online briefly and a thread from Shoryuken about mounting plates etc. came up, but a lot of the links and images were broken.) Another possibility is getting another American-style joystick that is naturally 4-way (though you'd have to swap it back if you wanted to play MvC instead of TGM/Puzzle Fighter) or switchable between 4/8-way operation (has a square/diamond gate that can be rotated, much like a Sanwa JLF). I'm not sure the exact model that we were using when my games were installed at the student union arcade, but a Happ 4-way stick was the only option the arcade operator was willing to spring for in a wood cabinet -- whatever method he used to mount Sanwa sticks in Street Fighter IV was apparently kind of crazy and more or less involved converting it to a metal control panel, but I'm sure there are less insane ways of doing things. At any rate, even though it's not a typical option (and Kevin is surely laughing at me already), it's very possible to play TGM well on an American-style stick. I got some of my personal records at the time on that cabinet, including sub-10 minute TGM1 and sub-8 minute TGM2+ Master. Just get ready for your shoulder to get really sore if you push it that hard. As for the price, I'm no expert on American-style cabinets, but I think it seems right? You could also consider the fact that you're getting games -- Marvel vs. Capcom software with CPS2 hardware is probably $100~150? I don't know how much Puzzle Fighter software goes for, but it looks like it's another set with both the cart and CPS2 hardware so it's got to be at least $30~50 value on it's own (random guess $50~80 with software?). So, if you care about either of those games or think you'd be able to sell them, then that could be pretty good value. (I don't know the value of the pirate cart thing he's including, but that could be fun to mess around with. )
Kitaru, thank you very much. I'll order some Sanwa JLF joysticks. As for TGM 2 or TGM 3, Do I need a Taito X motherboard for that? Edit: And uhh. He said something about wiring harness for this game elf? Do any of us have ANY idea what that would looking like? Where do I find the wiring harness for the game elf?
You would need extra things for TGM3 (a JVS I/O board, USB dongle and either a Taito Type X or a JVS to JAMMA adapter, correct me if I'm wrong), but TGM2 is the same deal. No idea what that elf is. Are we talking disassembly and all? Is this the Christmas one? I can't tell
Thank you, Qlex. Fortunately, It will be a little while before I jump onto the TGM2 or TGM3 train. Christmas one? I'm not sure I understand. Disassembly and all? You mean I can't pop this into my truck without some trouble? Furthermore. I'm going to have to look at this damn thing when I buy it to see what precisely I need to mount some Sanwa joysticks on here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sanwa-JLF-H...060?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417861691c Here is a mount. Just a metal plate, I see. It looks like this fits BOTH the American and the Japanese. I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing, but it looks like a cheap option. Otherwise, I suppose I can look about some less-than-modern options.
Don't worry about it, it's good. However I would wait a little bit before buying some of those items. Not sure the metal plate is what you're looking for, especially if you have one from your cabinet
Qlex, thanks again. That's what I needed to hear. I'm excited and flustered. I absolutely cannot wait to look at this on Monday. I'm certain I'll have all sorts of questions for all of you then.
Yeah, earlier he was making a joke about Game Elf. Christmas elves? Executable and Linkable Format (ELF)? As for loading it on a truck, I think you need to put it on a moving blanket or something, but it should be doable. I've never moved a cab (yet) so I think others may have better advice.
If you're moving one I'd look at taking the CRT out before moving it too much. Once it's out of the cab, moving the cab and the monitor individually is pretty trivial assuming you've got enough space in whatever is transporting it. If the monitor doesn't come out then I don't think it's a huge deal, but I'd check that any bolts and fixings inside the cab were completely tight, and then obviously pad things and strap everything down properly. The craigslist ad says he'll deliver anyway. And if you're really not great with tools and stuff then that mounting plate looks like it should work. If you are then I'd be loathe to see someone pay $25 for a tiny plate with some holes in - you could easily knock that up yourself for $5 if you know what you're doing.
Thank you Rosti, Unfortunately, I'm a bit far away for him to deliver. I live two hours away, in the coachella valley. I can't really expect him to come here. I dont want to ask him to meet me halfway either. I want to tap into his brain for an hour and have him tell me EVERYTHING HE KNOWS ABOUT CABINETS. I want him to show me how to switch boards, how to use the game elf, how to access the settings panel, etc. taking the CRT out sounds like an option. I'll be sure to check how sturdy it is before I move it. As for the stupid metal ripoff plate. I have some tools here that will do the job. I'm not sure I can come up with a metal one, but a strong plastic should work, I hope. Hell, maybe the cab comes with a hybrid joystick mount! I also want to customize the hell out of this. The red-ish background decal that the joysticks are on look really stupid. The marvel v capcom can go too. maybe I'll get the full TGM background stuff and put that on. Maybe something customized. I'd dig some TETRIS concept art on it. See how excited I am? I don't even have the damn thing and I'm going crazy!
I think if you use like a 5mm thick plate of some half-decent plastic (like ABS or acetal) then it'd probably do the job. It's only a transfer plate really, unless you're hanging your whole weight of the joystick it doesn't need to carry that much stress. Kind of glad to hear you say that - personally I thought it looks incredibly tacky but didn't want to be calling out something you were spending $400 on as looking like a pile of ass
If you don't know a lot about arcade cabs, I'd watch out when dealing with the CRT monitors in there. There's a lot of high voltage going around, and it oftens stays for a while after it's been turned off unless you discharge it.
I don't want a thunderdome ass bucket TGM machine, so I'm hoping everyone here has some ideas about making this thing look good! What would you guys do if you had a 150 budget on making it look nice? The buttons, joystick, and the art all have to go for sure IMO.
Thank you, Sumez! I certainly would like to prolong my lifespan and avoid traumatic electric injury! I have asked the owner of the machine to take the plug out so that we are safe for D-Day tomorrow at pickup hours. Does this mean that I should be careful for lingering voltage when changing boards as well? How do you change a cartridge safely?
As long as you only touch the mounting frame and glass part of the tube you should be fine. Stay away from the anode (the suction-cup-like thing stuck to the back) as well as the black stuff around it (conductive paint), stay away from the neck and neckboard (square PCB attached to the neck), and don't touch the big PCB at the bottom. CRT monitors operate at around 20kV, and the tube acts like a big capacitor that can hold its charge for weeks. Normally you would discharge it if you're going to do anything serious with it, but simply moving it out of or into the cabinet doesn't really count as anything serious. JAMMA games themselves operate at a max of 12V with very low currents that discharge pretty much instantly after the board has turned off. There's no danger to you, only to the boards themselves, so make sure you aren't wearing a wool sweater and touch ground (a water tap will do) before you handle them to make sure you're not statically charged.
Don't even think about doing that shit. It's a good way to ruin your wrists and arms forever (like Kitaru, who is currently suffering from serious wrist problems, did). Mounting a JLF is hard in a wood cabinet but this guide should be able to help you out. The JLF is truly the best stick for TGM hands down. The next best thing would probably be a JLW, but those are bad for your wrists in a similar way to the Happ sticks. You shouldn't need to move the monitor out of the cab to get it into a truck. Wheel it up to the back of the truck on a hand truck, then lie it down on its back (you should use at least two people for this) preferably over some towels. Find a way to secure it and you're good to go. Be careful as you could damage the monitor if you go over crazy bumps or the cab slides around. If you remove the monitor and have it lying bare inside the truck, you're WAY more likely to damage it in transit.
